Frequently asked questions.

How does a radon reduction system work?

The typical radon reduction system is referred to as a sub-slab depressurization system. This depressurization process creates a negative pressure under your home’s foundation that seals your home tight against the ground while pulling the air out of the soil surrounding your home’s foundation. That’s why it’s important to seal the cracks in your basement floor and foundation walls and to seal the sump pit – not so much to prevent the radon from entering your home as it is to prevent heated or cooled air inside your home from being pulled out of the home and vented to the outside by the reduction system. Sealing the cracks in your basement floor and foundation walls helps reduce heating and cooling costs when operating a radon reduction system.

What are the components of a radon reduction system?

A variety of components can be used to reduce radon in your home. Sealing cracks and other openings in the basement floor and foundation is a basic component of a radon reduction system.  If your home has a sump pit, that needs to be sealed too. The EPA does not recommend the use of sealing alone to limit radon entry as sealing alone has not been shown to lower radon levels significantly or consistently. The final, and most important component of a radon reduction system is to install a reduction blower and vent pipe leading from the basement floor to the roof of the home. A reduction system is designed to pull radon from the soil surrounding your home’s foundation and vent it to the outside before it has a chance to enter your home.

Will the system be noticeable on my home?

The ideal installation makes use of an attached garage where the vent pipe and reduction blower are hidden from view outside the home. If the home does not have an attached garage, one option is to route the vent pipe from the basement, up through an interior closet, and into the attic where the reduction blower is installed. The most economical option is to route the vent pipe directly through the basement wall to the outside of the home and up along the exterior or the home – certainly a workable option if it won’t affect the home’s aesthetics.

How much does it cost to have a radon reduction system installed?

The installation of a radon reduction system will vary by project. Some projects may require the replacement of a pedestal sump pump with a submersible sump pump in order to form an airtight seal around the sump pit, sealing multiple sump pits, routing the system vent pipe over an extended distance, caulking cracks in the basements floor and foundation, installing multiple sub-slab suction points, or installing a radon barrier in a crawl space with a dirt or gravel floor. For all these reasons we offer a free consultation and estimate, giving you the information you need to make the best decision for your home.

Do you test my home after installing a reduction system?

Always. We re-test your home after the reduction system has been operating for 24 hours. It is the only way to know for sure the system is doing its job. If the radon reduction system was installed as a contingency to a real estate transaction, a post system verification test with supporting documentation is mandatory.

Why is there a 24-hour delay to perform the verification test?

EPA/NEHA protocol states that a short-term follow-up test is to begin no sooner than 24 hours after the radon reduction system is initially turned on. This 24 hour delay allows the reduction system to reduce the accumulated radon to the true level one expects with an active reduction system. Starting the verification test as soon as the reduction system is turned on can result in an inaccurate radon level reading.